Self-styled cologne-type fragrances present
something of a dilemma: formulate them in the mould of the traditional eau and
you have a product that disappears almost before you’ve set the bottle down.
Alternatively, extend the longevity of the perfume with base notes and risk
losing the essential cologne character once the citrus top-mid notes have
evaporated. There is, of course, no right or wrong here, but on the spectrum
I’d place Gin and Lime towards the latter pole.
As its name suggests, the perfume opens
with a marriage between a bright citrus accord whose limey twist provides for
the addition of some crisp greenery and a gin note that, altough somewhat light
on botanicals, is conveyed with a Floralozone like breeziness that captures the
cool refreshment of a clear cocktail. I noted this ozonic quality in another
Pell Wall perfume – Pretty in Pink, and as in that case, the material’s
excellent substantivity and apparentness at all stages of development serves as
a cohering factor. From there, Gin and Lime takes a slight floral turn (having
some Hedione/jasmine nuances) before drying out to a long-lasting and linear
fond that, in addition to the aforementioned ozonic note, is to my nose dominated
by Ambrox(an) and clean musks.
Nose: Chris Bartlett
House: Pell Wall Perfumes
Release date: 2011
Notes (per Basentoes): Lime, juniper, neroli,
orange, coriander, orange flower, galbanum, ambergris, civet, musk.
