Sunday, 19 June 2016

Allure Homme Sport Cologne Review

Confusingly named flankers and re-launches aside, Chanel’s Allure Homme Sport Cologne 2016 is a nice take on the genre that opens with a mandarin fronted citrus accord which has a pleasantly tart, pithy, green and lightly spicy quality as well as a natural freshness that avoids several ‘sport’ clichés. With no distinct heart-notes to speak of, what’s left of the fragrance after the above disappears is a monolithic, Iso E Supery- powdery- hot iron- starchy musk base that smells modern, clean and fresh. 

Nose: Olivier Polge
House: Chanel
Release date: 2016
Notes (per Parfumo): sicilian mandarin, lovage, elemi, cedarwood, amber, white musk.

Wednesday, 8 June 2016

Sultan Leather Review

The problem (it seems to me) with complex smelling materials such as Safraleine is that they can all too easily become a vehicle for laziness. Underline the saffron-tobacco-hot pleather notes with some synthy woods, a little vanilla like sweetness and musks et voilà! A dark ‘leather’ perfume ready to sell to the next niche brand that comes a knocking. 

Nose: Unknown (From Mavive Fragrance House)
House: The Merchant of Venice
Release date: 2015
Notes (per Fragrantica): saffron, pepper, nutmeg, geranium, floral notes, white sandalwood, cedar, leather, black musk.

Friday, 3 June 2016

Costarela Review

Launched in anticipation of the northern Summer, Costarela is Carner Barcelona’s deft take on the (already well explored) beach theme.
Bergamot dominates the opening and as the note’s evaporation curve tails off, its Linalooly- agrestic character segues neatly into a much gentler, herbal-balsamic accord of suntan lotion like salicylates. The coastal scene is completed by some nicely judged marine notes, pale woods, Ambrox(an) and musks that together, create a fine impression of driftwood afloat the warm ocean.
Overall, Costarela is less innovative than Pierre Guillaume’s recent riffs (Entre Ciel et Mer and Paris Seychelles), but it is a nicely composed perfume that’s none-too-taxing to wear.

Nose: Shyamala Maisondieu
House: Carner Barcelona
Release date: 2016
Notes (per Fragrantica): bergamot, saffron, sea notes, sand, Virginian cedar, Ambroxan, amber.