Self-styled cologne-type fragrances present something of a dilemma: formulate them in the mould of the traditional eau and you have a product that disappears almost before you’ve set the bottle down. Alternatively, extend the longevity of the perfume with base notes and risk losing the essential cologne character once the citrus top-mid notes have evaporated. There is, of course, no right or wrong here, but on the spectrum I’d place Gin and Lime towards the latter pole.
As its name suggests, the perfume opens with a marriage between a bright citrus accord whose limey twist provides for the addition of some crisp greenery and a gin note that, altough somewhat light on botanicals, is conveyed with a Floralozone like breeziness that captures the cool refreshment of a clear cocktail. I noted this ozonic quality in another Pell Wall perfume – Pretty in Pink, and as in that case, the material’s excellent substantivity and apparentness at all stages of development serves as a cohering factor. From there, Gin and Lime takes a slight floral turn (having some Hedione/jasmine nuances) before drying out to a long-lasting and linear fond that, in addition to the aforementioned ozonic note, is to my nose dominated by Ambrox(an) and clean musks.
Nose: Chris Bartlett
House: Pell Wall Perfumes
Release date: 2011
Notes (per Basentoes): Lime, juniper, neroli, orange, coriander, orange flower, galbanum, ambergris, civet, musk.