I’ve so far been very positive in my assessment of Pierre
Guillaume’s Collection Croisière and Métal Hurlant poses no exception. Inherent
in the idea of a cruise is a crossing and the two words share an etymological
link. Beyond the perfumes’ transportive powers however, lies a shared
intersecting of unusual themes. In Métal Hurlant, this novel crossing involves
leather and herbal notes.
The herbal complex is arranged around patchouli with
agrestic, linalool/linalyl acetate type accents and hints of licorice. This is
extended with some powerful (but not overpowering) woody-amber odorants that
really enliven the Suede(ral) dominated base.
The accompanying PR suggests the perfume is intended to
evoke the wild energy of a Harley tearing up an open road with the listed notes
including rubber tyre, chrome and gasoline accords. Whilst the composition does
indeed call to mind the idea of a greasy biker jacket, a (no doubt deliberate)
synthetic vibe prevents Métal Hurlant from ever achieving that second-skin
wearability of, say, Chanel’s Cuir de Russie.
Challenging.
Nose: Pierre Guillaume
House: Pierre Guillaume La Collection Croisière
Release date: 2015
Notes (per Basenotes): fresh paint accord, rubber tyre
accord, leather, chrome, gasoline accord, musks.
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