Saturday, 3 October 2015

Anjin Review


Anjin’s head accord is constructed around a light/dark contrast with zingy citrus notes being shaded by clove and allspice. The hesperidic top links to a lightly herbal heart that has a warm, gingery aura and the whole thing lifts off the skin with a C12 (MNA) aldehyde type gaseousness. As Anjin’s woodsy base begins to assert itself, the fragrance comes to somewhat resemble No.5, if you can imagine the latter minus its floral notes: incense-like aldehydes atop a musky, ambery, sandalwood fond. The sandalwood here is lightly creamy with a hint of nuttiness, but it has a more modern, Javanol-y feel.
A thoughtfully made perfume.

Nose: Chris Bartlett
House: Pell Wall Perfumes
Release date: 2011
Notes (per Basenotes): Bergamot, cedrat, green mandarin, lime, neroli, coriander, pink pepper, ginger, violet, ambergris, cedar, sandalwood, vanilla, tonka, white musk.

6 comments:

  1. Many thanks for the insightful review :-)

    I’ve done a little blog post of my own linking here and to another review - very different - that you might find it interesting to read now that you’ve done yours.

    I’m always fascinated to see what other people find in my fragrances that I didn’t see there myself: in this case the (very flattering) comparison with No. 5 is something I’d never considered.

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  2. Hi Chris,
    Thank you for stopping by and commenting - you're the first perfumer to do so :)
    I'm always interested in the compositional side of things, so please feel free to correct me if need be. It's how one learns.
    I look forward to following your links.
    Best,
    L.

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  3. My pleasure, and how lovely to be the first :-)

    Anjin has some 23 different materials contributing to the sandalwood note (including the natural oil) - Javanol is one and it’s the strongest - but you might find it interesting to explore some of the others. I find them very difficult to pick out individually when used together but you spend a lot more time evaluating finished fragrances than I do.

    Happy sniffing!

    Best,
    Chris

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  4. That's really interesting, Chris.
    I think you did an excellent job in constructing the sandalwood note, bringing out its many facets: I get the lactonic aspect, a little spiciness, a steroidal shade (so a trace of Norlimbanol?) and that cedar like nuttiness.
    Nice!

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  5. Thanks! You’re right about the norlimbanol - it’s more than a trace though at over 2.5% of the formula - that’s a high dose for such a powerful material and it’s crucial to the way this fragrance works: good spot.

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  6. Oh, wow. Being so well blended, the Norlimbanol certainly doesn't seem as if it were used at that level.
    Thanks for the additional insight, Chris.

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