Entre Ciel et Mer is perhaps the most convincing olfactory portrait of the seaside I’ve yet come across; a panoramic snapshot of glistening, lotioned bodies arrayed before an expanse of blue-green ocean.
Opening with an ozonic pear note atop a suncream accord smelling of sweet, oily salicylates against a fatty, lactonic green floral background (here including Lyral), the fragrance soon darkens as the mossy marine tones of seaweed extract (Robertet’s new Seaweed Pacific Colourless DM maybe) assume prominence. In contrast to the 90s style aquatics whose heavy reliance on Calone gave them a warm, stagnant rockpool feel, Entre Ciel et Mer seems much cooler and becomes progressively drier as the distilled algae is linked to a herbal complex that in turn connects with a pale, woody-amber (Ambrox type) fond. It’s never rough though, thanks in part to a considerable musk chord that’s, truth be told, just a touch too laundry detergent for my own taste.
Nose: Pierre Guillaume
House: Pierre Guillaume La Collection Croisière
Release date: 2015
Notes (per Fragrantica): water splashed leaves, lavender, pear, white thyme, algae, litchen, ambergris, cedar moss, sandalwood from New Caledonia.