Given Chanel has all but spat on the grave of Henri Robert with its dire reformulations of No.19, and Trussardi’s Trussardi has fared little better, there’s space in the market for a quality, green leather. On paper, Irish Leather by Memo looks as if it could plug that gap but in reality, there’s just too little of the promised hide.
The perfume’s opening is intriguing: a crunchy-green combo of galbanum and tomato leaf, backed up by some light agrestic notes. There’s a vague impression of something quinoline-vetiver-y, but it hardly registers as leather for me. As the tomato leaf fades, the vanilla heavy Oriental base gains in intensity, as does a pale, dry woodsiness.
Nose: Alienor Massenet
Release date: 2013
Notes (per Fragrantica): tomato leaf, vanilla, leather, labdanum, clary sage, galbanum, orris root, sandalwood, tolu balsam, opoponax,myrrh, benzoin, musk.