Thursday, 27 November 2014

First Van Cleef & Arpels Review

I doubt if anyone would pick this as a J.-C. Ellena creation, so different is it from the sheer, pared-down style that has become his trademark.
First is an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink type aldehydic green-floral that basically recalls a finely milled French soap. It possesses a remarkable 20% Hedione however, and therefore is fantastically diffusive and bright.
Of course, nowadays 20% is perfectly standard but in 1976 such a level was quite revolutionary. To put things in perspective, Eau Sauvage (1966), in which the molecule débuted, contained less than a tenth that amount.
A very definite perfumey perfume.

Nose: Jean-Claude Ellena
House: Van Cleef & Arpels
Release date: 1976
Notes (per Basenotes): Aldehydes, hyacinth, jasmine, rose, amber, sandalwood.

Wednesday, 26 November 2014

Rochas Femme (vintage) Review

Femme by Rochas, is a fruity-chypre with a prominent peach lactone note that instantly recalls Mitsouko. Containing roughly a third of the vetiver oil used in the latter, it's less green, more woody-spicy and above all, cuminic.
Great stuff !

Nose: Edmond Roudnitska
House: Rochas
Release date: 1943
Notes (per Fragrantica): bergamot, peach, plum, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, amber, musk, oakmoss, sandalwood.

Tuesday, 25 November 2014

Rose Royale Review

Rose Royale is a neon-red rose construction with a notable appley/peachy facet and a spicy woods and amber diffusion. 

Nose: Sidonie Lancesseur.
House: Lalique
Release date: 2014
Notes (per Fragrantica): apricot, peach, osmanthus, rose, cashmere wood, musk. 

Saturday, 1 November 2014

Iris (reissue) Review

Le Galion’s is an affable, middleweight take on iris. The top notes are intensely green in the direction of galbanum and fig leaf. What follows however, is much more sedate: a lightly woodsy-powdery orris backed by an unobtrusive amount of ambery sweetness.

Nose: Thomas Fontaine (after Paul Vacher)
House: Le Galion
Release date: 2014 (reissue, 1937 original)
Notes (per Fragrantica): bergamot, citron, mimosa, hibiscus, iris, lily, rose, galbanum, cedar, amber, musk.