With carnation perfumes generally being regarded as a bit passé, and IFRA regulations on (Iso/) Eugenol re-casting yesterday’s classics as silent killers, modern carnation fragrances require quite some creativity to work.
The ‘œillet’ in Œillet Bengale is unmistakably present, though the requisite herbal/green complex of salicylates used to create the note is pushed in the direction of lily and paired with rose, giving a verdant, fresh-spicy-floral scent in the top and heart. Unfortunately, I do detect some hot pleather whiffs of Safraleine escaping at this point, though thankfully these are checked in the base where the vanillic shade of Methyl Diantilis (largely doing the job of Iso Eugenol) is picked up and woven into a nice, balsamic, musky blend.
Nose: Rodrigo Flores-Roux
House: Aedes de Venustas
Release date: 2014
Notes (per Fragrantica): turmeric, cinnamon, black pepper, cardamom, cloves, saffron, rose, white pepper, strawberry, floral notes, vanilla, tolu balsam, benzoin and labdanum.