Eau de Patou (vintage) is situated somewhere between a traditional Eau de Cologne (consisting essentially in an accord of top-notes) and a fully developed Chypre.
Of the commonly used citrus oils, bergamot stands out for its naturally high concentration of linalool and linalyl acetate, which idea is here extrapolated to give the fragrance heft. Eau de Patou thus seamlessly blends a classical hesperidic top with a slightly terpy, aromatic heart redolent of lavender and peppered greenery.
Helping offset some of the fragrance’s sharpness is a perfectly synched floral complement that’s initially suggestive of honeysuckle and jasmine and perhaps rose, but fairly quickly looses its sweetness as the (real) oakmoss begins to assert its earthy self. Meanwhile, lurking deep in the base is touch of dirty civet that acts as a fantastic fixative, giving Eau de Patou good longevity by eaux standards.
[N.B. Review is based on the above shown presentation]
Nose: Jean Kerleo.
House: Jean Patou
Release date: 1976
Notes (per Fragrantica): orange, sicilian citruses, honeysuckle, pepper, tunisian orange blossom, ylang-ylang, nasturcia, amber, musk, civet oakmoss.